Ingredients Glossary / A

Alpha Lipoic Acid

A sulphur-containing antioxidant that helps smooth texture, soften the look of fine lines and keep other antioxidants working.

lipoic acid, thioctic acid, R-lipoic acid

Ageing skin · Dull skin

    What it does

    Alpha lipoic acid is a powerful skincare ingredient and a favourite for many formulations. The body makes small amounts of it in the mitochondria of its cells. It is not an essential fatty acid (nor alpha-linolenic acid, the omega-3), but a sulphur-containing antioxidant that can help soften the look of fine lines and rough texture, and is best for those wanting to revive dull, tired-looking skin.

    How it works

    Thanks to its calming, antioxidant action, alpha lipoic acid is best used to smooth the texture of skin, and can help reduce the visible signs of ageing. Because it dissolves in both water and oil, it works in both parts of the cell, and it is known as a network antioxidant because it helps regenerate other antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E, so they keep working. For this reason, it’s often found alongside vitamin C, vitamin E and coenzyme Q10, and can work in tandem to improve the quality of the skin.

    MG says

    When paired together, alpha lipoic acid and vitamin C work synergistically. Try pairing the two by using a vitamin C serum in the morning and a treatment or serum containing alpha lipoic acid in the evening. CosMedix Elite Eye Doctor pairs it with retinol for the delicate eye area, which suits that evening step.

    Cautions

    Alpha lipoic acid can tingle or cause redness at higher strengths, so introduce it gradually and patch test if your skin is sensitive.

    Regional notes