Notes · Glossary

The Ingredients Glossary

The actives, botanicals and building blocks behind Melanie’s treatments and the formulas she trusts, explained: what each one does, how it works, and what Melanie thinks of it.

Good for

AHAs, BHAs and PHAsThe three families of acid exfoliant: AHAs smooth and brighten the surface, BHAs help keep pores clear, and PHAs suit sensitive skin.Ahydroxy acids, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, AHA, BHA, PHA, chemical exfoliants, acid exfoliants, lactobionic acidTexture & large pores · Dull skin · Blemish-prone skin · Pigmentation & dark spots · Ageing skin

AllantoinA gentle soothing agent that softens rough, dry patches and helps comfort sensitive, stressed skin.Aallantoin, 5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxyldiureideSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Almond OilA gentle, almost scent-free plant oil that softens, moisturises and helps protect dry and sensitive skin.Asweet almond oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Prunus dulcisDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Body texture & stretch marks

Aloe VeraA soothing, water-rich plant gel that calms, comforts and hydrates sensitive or stressed skin.AAloe barbadensis leaf juice, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Aloe barbadensis Miller, aloe gelSensitive skin · Redness · Dry & dehydrated skin

Alpha Lipoic AcidA sulphur-containing antioxidant that helps smooth texture, soften the look of fine lines and keep other antioxidants working.Alipoic acid, thioctic acid, R-lipoic acidAgeing skin · Dull skin

Amino AcidsThe building blocks of proteins and a key part of the skin's own moisturising factor; in skincare they hydrate and condition.Aarginine, glycine, serine, proline, alanine, lysine, histidine, threonine, glutamic acid, collagen amino acids, oat amino acidsDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

AntioxidantsIngredients that neutralise free radicals from UV and pollution, to help keep skin looking radiant; best worn every morning under SPF.Aantioxidant, free-radical scavengers, free radicals, oxidative stressAgeing skin · Dull skin · All skin types

Apple ExtractA fruit extract that brings gentle malic acid, sugars and antioxidants to exfoliating and brightening formulas.APyrus malus fruit extract, apple fruit extract, Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, apple stem cells, apple seed oil, Pyrus malus seed oil, malic acidDull skin · Texture & large pores

Apricot OilA light, fast-absorbing kernel oil that softens and smooths dry skin, leaving it supple with a natural glow.Aapricot kernel oil, Prunus armeniaca kernel oilDry & dehydrated skin

Aqua (Water)Water, listed as “aqua”: the base of most skincare, dissolving other ingredients and giving products their texture.Awater, aqua, eau, purified waterAll skin types

ArbutinA gentle brightening agent, usually used as alpha-arbutin, that helps even skin tone and fade the look of dark spots.Aalpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, hydroquinone beta-D-glucopyranoside, bearberry extract, Arctostaphylos uva-ursiPigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin · Dull skin

Argan OilA nourishing kernel oil, rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, that softens, protects and supports the barrier of dry skin.AArgania spinosa kernel oil, argan kernel oilDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · Dull skin · Barrier support

AstaxanthinA red carotenoid from microalgae, and one of the strongest antioxidants in skincare, helping defend skin against oxidative stress from UV and pollution.AHaematococcus pluvialis extract, astaxanthineAgeing skin · Dull skin

Avocado OilA rich, non-fragrant fruit oil that replenishes moisture and nourishes dry, sensitive or mature skin.APersea gratissima oil, avocado fruit oilDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Ageing skin · Barrier support

Azelaic AcidA gentle, versatile acid that helps keep pores clear, calm the look of redness and fade the look of post-blemish marks.Aazelaic acid, nonanedioic acid, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, azeloyl glycineBlemish-prone skin · Redness · Pigmentation & dark spots · Texture & large pores

AzuleneA blue soothing compound, from chamomile or guaiac wood, that helps calm the look of redness and adds antioxidant protection.Aguaiazulene, chamazulene, azulene extractRedness · Sensitive skin

BakuchiolA plant-based alternative to retinol that helps soften the look of fine lines and uneven tone, with less irritation.Bbakuchiol, Psoralea corylifolia seed extract, babchiAgeing skin · Sensitive skin · Pigmentation & dark spots

BaobabFrom the African baobab tree: a softening seed oil and hydrating fruit and leaf extracts, suited to dry and mature skin.BAdansonia digitata seed oil, Adansonia digitata pulp extract, baobab seed oil, baobab fruit extract, baobab leaf extractDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

Benzoyl PeroxideA widely used acne medicine that works on pore-clogging bacteria; it can be drying, so start low and use it under guidance.Bbenzoyl peroxide, BPO, dibenzoyl peroxideBlemish-prone skin

Beta GlucanA soothing sugar from oats, yeast or mushrooms that hydrates, calms the look of redness and comforts sensitive skin.Bbeta-glucan, oat beta glucan, sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, yeast beta-glucanSensitive skin · Redness · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

BisabololA calming compound found in chamomile that soothes sensitive skin and helps other ingredients absorb.Balpha-bisabolol, (-)-alpha-bisabolol, levomenolSensitive skin · Redness

CaffeineAn antioxidant used mainly in eye care to reduce the look of puffiness and dark circles, and in body creams for the look of cellulite.Ccaffeine, coffee, Coffea arabicaDark circles · Body texture & stretch marks

CalendulaA soothing extract of pot marigold flowers that helps comfort and nourish dry, sensitive or easily irritated skin.CCalendula officinalis, pot marigold, marigold, calendula oil, calendula flower extractSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Redness

Castor OilA thick, glossy seed oil that helps cleansing balms dissolve makeup and gives lip care its cushion and shine.CRicinus communis (castor) seed oil, castor seed oil, ricinus oilDry & dehydrated skin

Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola)A calming botanical, often labelled “cica”, that helps soothe redness and sensitivity and supports the skin barrier.CCentella asiatica, gotu kola, cica, tiger grass, madecassoside, asiaticoside, Centella asiatica leaf extractSensitive skin · Redness · Barrier support

CeramidesSkin-identical lipids that, with cholesterol and fatty acids, hold the skin barrier together and help it lock in moisture.Cceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide EOP, sphingolipids, phytosphingosine, barrier lipids, skin-identical lipidsDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Cetearyl OlivateA gentle, olive-derived emulsifier that holds oil and water together, giving creams a light, silky texture.Ccetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, Olivem 1000, olive-derived emulsifierAll skin types · Dry & dehydrated skin

ChamomileA soothing flower extract, rich in antioxidants, that helps calm sensitive skin and the look of redness.Ccamomile, German chamomile, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract, Roman chamomile, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Chamaemelum nobileSensitive skin · Redness

CholesterolOne of the skin’s three key barrier lipids, working with ceramides and fatty acids to keep skin supple and hold in moisture.Ccholesterol, cholesterol sulphate, phytosterols (plant sterols), barrier lipidsDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin · Sensitive skin

Citric AcidA fruit acid used mostly in tiny amounts to balance a formula’s pH; at higher strengths it is a mild AHA exfoliant.Ccitric acid, sodium citrate, citrateDull skin · Texture & large pores

ClaysAbsorbent mineral clays, such as kaolin and bentonite, used in masks to soak up excess oil and help keep pores clear.Cclay, kaolin, white clay, bentonite, bentonite clay, montmorillonite, illiteBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

Cocamidopropyl BetaineA mild, coconut-derived foaming agent that gives cleansers a soft lather and makes harsher surfactants gentler.Ccocamidopropyl betaine, CAPB, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco betaine, cocamidopropylAll skin types

Cocoa Butter and PowderRich cocoa butter softens and seals in moisture on very dry skin, while antioxidant cocoa extracts help protect it.CTheobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract, cacao, cocoa seed butter, cocoa extractDry & dehydrated skin

Coconut OilA rich plant oil that softens dry skin and seals in moisture; best kept to the body or rinse-off cleansers if you’re breakout-prone.CCocos nucifera (coconut) oil, virgin coconut oil, fractionated coconut oilDry & dehydrated skin

Coenzyme Q10An antioxidant the skin makes naturally, and makes less of with age; in skincare it helps protect against free-radical damage.CCoQ10, ubiquinone, ubiquinol, Co-Enzyme Q10Ageing skin · Dull skin

CollagenThe skin’s main structural protein. Applied topically it hydrates the surface, but it can’t replace the collagen skin loses with age.Ccollagen, hydrolysed collagen, hydrolyzed collagen, soluble collagen, marine collagen, collagen amino acids, atelocollagenDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

Colloidal OatmealFinely milled whole oats that comfort, soften and moisturise dry, sensitive or easily irritated skin.Ccolloidal oatmeal, Avena sativa (oat) kernel flour, oat, oat kernel extract, oat beta-glucan, avenanthramidesSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Redness · Barrier support

Copper PeptidesCarrier peptides, chiefly GHK-Cu, that deliver copper to the skin and help it look firmer and smoother.Ccopper peptides, copper peptide, copper tripeptide-1, GHK-Cu, copper, copper gluconate, copper PCA, copper lysinate/prolinateAgeing skin

Cucumber ExtractA cooling, water-rich botanical extract that soothes, refreshes and helps hydrate sensitive or irritated skin.Ccucumber, cucumber extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Cucumis sativusSensitive skin · Redness · Dry & dehydrated skin

DimethiconeA silicone that gives creams, primers and sunscreens their silky slip, smooths the look of skin and helps seal in moisture.Ddimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane, PDMS, silicone, silicones, dimethiconol, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymerDry & dehydrated skin · Texture & large pores · Sensitive skin

DNA and RNAPurified nucleic acid fragments, often from salmon, that help skin hold moisture and look plumper; they don't alter your own DNA.DDNA, RNA, sodium DNA, calcium DNA, magnesium DNA, salmon DNA, triple DNA, nucleic acids, polynucleotides, PDRNDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

EctoinA protective molecule made by bacteria that survive salt, heat and drought; in skincare it hydrates, soothes and shields.Eectoin, ectoine, extremolyteSensitive skin · Redness · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Emulsifying WaxA blend of ingredients that holds oil and water together, giving creams and lotions a smooth, stable texture.Eemulsifying wax NF, emulsifying wax BP, cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20, emulsifierDry & dehydrated skin

Encapsulation and LiposomesDelivery systems that wrap actives in tiny capsules to keep them stable and release them gradually, so they are gentler.Eencapsulated, microencapsulated, micro-encapsulated, liposomes, liposomal, slow-release, time-release, extended-release, delivery system, phospholipids, lecithinAgeing skin · Sensitive skin · Texture & large pores

EnzymesFruit-derived and other enzymes, such as bromelain and papain, that digest dead surface cells: the mildest form of chemical exfoliation.Eenzyme exfoliants, fruit enzymes, proteolytic enzymes, protease, bromelain, papain, pineapple enzyme, papaya enzyme, pumpkin enzyme, enzyme peelSensitive skin · Dull skin · Texture & large pores · Dry & dehydrated skin

EthanolA fast-evaporating alcohol used as a solvent and preservative; useful in light formulas, but drying for sensitive skin in high amounts.Ealcohol, alcohol denat., denatured alcohol, SD alcohol, ethyl alcohol

Eucalyptus OilAn aromatic essential oil from Australian eucalyptus leaves, used in small amounts for its fresh scent and cooling feel.EEucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Eucalyptus citriodora oil, blue gum oil, eucalyptol, 1,8-cineole

ExosomesTiny messenger vesicles released by cells; infused after microneedling to support the look of smoother, firmer skin.Eexosome, extracellular vesicles, plant-derived exosomesAgeing skin · Texture & large pores

Ferments, Probiotics and PostbioticsIngredients made by fermenting plants, yeasts or bacteria, used to hydrate, soothe and support a balanced skin microbiome.Fferment filtrate, ferment extract, lysate, Lactobacillus ferment, Bifida ferment lysate, Saccharomyces ferment filtrate, galactomyces ferment filtrate, Bacillus ferment, yeast extract, probiotics, postbiotics, prebiotics, microbiome skincareDry & dehydrated skin · Dull skin · Sensitive skin · Barrier support

Ferulic AcidA plant-derived antioxidant that helps stabilise vitamins C and E and adds to their protection against free radicals.Fferulic acid, hydroxycinnamic acidAgeing skin · Dull skin · Pigmentation & dark spots

Fragrance (Parfum)A blend of natural or synthetic aromatic compounds, listed as “fragrance” or “parfum”; one of the most common triggers for sensitive skin.Ffragrance, parfum, perfume, aroma, fragrance allergens, essential oils, limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniolAll skin types

Fullerenes (Fullersomes)Football-shaped carbon molecules used in a few high-tech formulas as antioxidants; 'fullersome' is a trade term.Ffullerenes, fullersomes, buckminsterfullerene, C60, carbon 60Ageing skin

GinsengAn antioxidant root extract, rich in ginsenosides, that helps revitalise dull, tired-looking skin.GPanax ginseng root extract, Korean ginseng, Asian ginseng, ginsenosidesAgeing skin · Dull skin

Gluconolactone (PHA)The most widely used PHA: the gentlest kind of chemical exfoliant, which smooths and hydrates sensitive or dry skin.Ggluconolactone, glucono-delta-lactone, PHA, polyhydroxy acid, poly hydroxy acid, lactobionic acidSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Texture & large pores · Dull skin

GlutathioneThe body's master antioxidant, a tripeptide that in skincare can help even the look of pigmentation over time.Gglutathione, L-glutathione, reduced glutathione, GSHPigmentation & dark spots · Dull skin

GlycerinA gentle, well-tolerated humectant that draws moisture into the skin; a staple of moisturisers for every skin type.Gglycerine, glycerol, vegetable glycerinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · All skin types

Glycolic AcidThe smallest and most potent of the common AHAs: an exfoliant that refines texture, brightens and smooths the look of fine lines.Gglycolic acid, hydroxyacetic acid, AHA, alpha hydroxy acidTexture & large pores · Dull skin · Ageing skin · Pigmentation & dark spots · Body texture & stretch marks

Grape Seed OilA light, fast-absorbing plant oil rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E that softens skin without heaviness.Ggrapeseed oil, Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, Vitis vinifera seed oilBarrier support · Blemish-prone skin · Dull skin

Green TeaAn antioxidant-rich extract that helps defend skin from free radicals and calms the look of redness and puffiness.Ggreen tea extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, EGCG, epigallocatechin gallate, matchaSensitive skin · Redness · Ageing skin

Growth FactorsProteins modelled on the skin's own messengers; in skincare they are bioengineered and used to help skin look smoother, plumper and firmer.Ggrowth factor, EGF, epidermal growth factor, sh-oligopeptide-1, sh-polypeptide-1, bioengineered growth factorsAgeing skin

HoneyA natural humectant with antioxidant polyphenols that softens, soothes and hydrates; Manuka honey is the variety most used in skincare.Hmel, honey extract, mel extract, Manuka honey, raw honeyDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · All skin types

Humectants, Emollients and OcclusivesThe three kinds of moisturising ingredient: humectants draw water in, emollients soften and smooth, and occlusives seal moisture in.Hhumectant, emollient, occlusive, moisturising ingredients, transepidermal water loss, TEWLDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · All skin types

Hyaluronic AcidA humectant the skin makes itself, which draws in and holds water to plump and smooth; serums combine several molecular weights.Hhyaluronan, HA, sodium hyaluronate, L sodium hyaluronate, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · Sensitive skin · All skin types

HydroquinoneA potent depigmenting medicine used for stubborn pigmentation; available on prescription or from a pharmacy, depending on the country, not in cosmetic skincare.Hhydroquinone, HQ, 1,4-dihydroxybenzene, benzene-1,4-diol, quinolPigmentation & dark spots

Isoflavones (Phyto-oestrogens)Soy-derived plant compounds with an oestrogen-like structure, used in creams for mature and menopausal skin to help it look firmer.Isoy isoflavones, soya isoflavones, genistein, daidzein, phytoestrogens, phyto-estrogens, yam extract, wild yam, Dioscorea villosaAgeing skin · Dry & dehydrated skin

Jojoba OilA light liquid wax from jojoba seeds that closely resembles the skin's own sebum, so it softens and protects without feeling heavy.JSimmondsia chinensis seed oil, jojoba seed oil, jojoba esters, jojoba wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, jojoba beadsBlemish-prone skin · Sensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Kojic AcidA brightening ingredient made by fungi during fermentation that helps even the look of skin tone and fade the appearance of dark spots.Kkojic acid, kojic dipalmitate, 5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4-pyronePigmentation & dark spots · Dull skin

Lactic AcidA gentle, hydrating AHA that smooths and brightens; a larger molecule than glycolic acid, so it suits dry and sensitive skin.Llactic acid, L-lactic acid, sodium lactate, AHADull skin · Texture & large pores · Dry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Body texture & stretch marks

LanolinA rich, semi-occlusive emollient from sheep's wool that softens and seals in moisture on very dry, chapped skin.Llanolin, lanolin oil, wool wax, wool fat, adeps lanaeDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Lemon BalmA soothing, antioxidant-rich herb (Melissa officinalis), rich in rosmarinic acid, used in radiance formulas.Llemon balm, Melissa officinalis, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, melissaDull skin

Liquorice RootA soothing root extract that calms the look of redness and helps brighten and even out skin tone.LGlycyrrhiza glabra root extract, licorice root extract, liquorice extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycyrrhizin, glabridin, liquiritinPigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin · Redness

Mandelic AcidThe gentlest of the common AHAs: a large-molecule exfoliant that refines texture and helps keep pores clear.Mmandelic acid, amygdalic acid, phenylglycolic acidBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores · Pigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin

Marula OilA nourishing, antioxidant-rich kernel oil, high in oleic acid, suited to dry, dehydrated and mature skin.Mmarula oil, Sclerocarya birrea seed oil, Sclerocarya birrea kernel oilDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

MicellesTiny clusters of mild cleansing molecules suspended in water that lift away makeup and impurities without stripping the skin.Mmicellar water, micelles, eau micellaireSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · All skin types

Milk ProteinsDairy-derived proteins such as casein and whey that hold water on the skin, comforting and softening dry, sensitive complexions.Mmilk protein, lactis proteinum, casein, hydrolysed casein, whey protein, colostrumDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin

Milk ThistleA soothing plant antioxidant, rich in silymarin, that helps protect sensitive and ageing skin from environmental stress.MSilybum marianum, Silybum marianum extract, Silybum marianum seed oil, silymarin, silybinSensitive skin · Redness · Ageing skin

Mushroom ExtractsExtracts of fungi such as tremella, poria and reishi, used for their water-holding sugars and soothing, antioxidant compounds.MTremella fuciformis extract, snow mushroom, Poria cocos extract, Ganoderma lucidum extract, reishi, Fomes officinalis extract, Tricholoma matsutake extract, matsutake, Lentinus edodes extract, shiitake, Cordyceps sinensis extract, Trametes versicolor extract, Polyporus umbellatus extractDry & dehydrated skin · Redness · Sensitive skin

Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF)The skin's own water-binding mix of amino acids, PCA, lactate and urea; skincare tops it up to keep the outer layer supple.NNMF, NMFs, natural moisturizing factor, sodium PCA, PCA, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, sodium lactate, urea, amino acids, filaggrinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)A gentle form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the barrier, helps skin look less oily and evens the look of tone; suits most skin types.Nniacinamide, nicotinamide, vitamin B3Barrier support · Pigmentation & dark spots · Redness · Blemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

Omega Fatty Acids (Vitamin F)Nourishing fats, including the essential omega-3 and omega-6 once called vitamin F, that help the skin barrier hold water and stay supple.Oomegas, omega-3, omega-6, omega-9, essential fatty acids, EFAs, vitamin F, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, EPA, DHADry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)Provitamin B5: a humectant that draws water into the skin, supports the barrier and soothes dry, irritated or red skin.Ppanthenol, D-panthenol, dexpanthenol, provitamin B5, pro-vitamin B5, pantothenic acidDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Redness · Barrier support

PeptidesShort chains of amino acids that help skin look firmer and smoother, soften the look of expression lines and support the barrier.Ppolypeptides, oligopeptides, signal peptides, Matrixyl, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, neuropeptides, Argireline, acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, carrier peptides, copper peptides, copper tripeptide-1, GHK-CuAgeing skin · Barrier support · Redness

Petrolatum and Mineral OilHighly refined, petroleum-derived occlusives that seal moisture in and protect very dry or compromised skin.Ppetrolatum, petroleum jelly, white soft paraffin, white petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum, liquid paraffin, paraffinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin

Phytic AcidA gentle, large-molecule exfoliating acid from grains and seeds that also acts as an antioxidant; suits sensitive skin.Pphytic acid, inositol hexaphosphate, IP6, sodium phytateSensitive skin · Texture & large pores · Dull skin

Plant Stem CellsAntioxidant-rich extracts from plant cell cultures that help protect the skin; they do not act as stem cells in your own skin.Pplant stem cell extract, plant cell culture extract, callus culture extract, meristem cell culture extract, Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, apple stem cells, Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, edelweiss stem cells, Lycium barbarum callus culture extractAgeing skin · Dull skin

Polyglutamic AcidA lightweight humectant made by fermentation that draws in water and leaves a flexible film, so skin stays plump and hydrated.Ppolyglutamic acid, PGA, gamma-polyglutamic acid, sodium polyglutamateDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · All skin types

PreservativesIngredients that stop bacteria, yeasts and moulds growing in a product once it's opened, so it stays safe to use.Pphenoxyethanol, parabens, methylparaben, propylparaben, sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, preservative-freeAll skin types

Quillaja (Soap Bark)A bark extract from the Chilean soapbark tree whose natural saponins foam and help cleanse.QQuillaja saponaria, Quillaja saponaria bark extract, Quillaja saponaria wood extract, soap bark, soapbark, saponinsBlemish-prone skin

ResveratrolA plant polyphenol antioxidant that helps defend skin against pollution and oxidative stress and softens the look of lines.Rresveratrol, trans-resveratrol, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Japanese knotweedAgeing skin · Dull skin

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)A strong non-prescription retinoid, one conversion step from retinoic acid, that refines texture, softens the look of lines and evens tone.Rretinal, retinaldehyde, vitamin A aldehyde, retinoidAgeing skin · Texture & large pores · Blemish-prone skin · Pigmentation & dark spots

RiceA gentle, multitasking ingredient: rice bran oil moisturises, rice protein conditions and rice starch leaves a soft, protective film.ROryza sativa, rice bran oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, hydrolysed rice protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, rice starch, rice waterDull skin · Dry & dehydrated skin

Rosehip OilA light seed oil rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids that softens, supports the barrier and suits oily, dry and mature skin.Rrosehip oil, rose hip oil, rosehip seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Rosa canina seed oil, Rosa rubiginosa seed oil, Rosa moschata seed oil, rosa mosqueta, dog roseDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · Blemish-prone skin · Body texture & stretch marks

Rose Oil and RosewaterRosewater, the fragrant water distilled from rose petals, refreshes and hydrates; rose essential oil adds scent in tiny amounts.Rrose water, rosewater, rose flower water, Rosa damascena flower water, rose oil, rose otto, rose absolute, Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosa centifolia flower extract, damask rose, rose hydrosolDry & dehydrated skin

Saccharide IsomerateA plant-sugar humectant that binds to the skin's surface, so the hydration it brings lasts longer than most.Ssaccharide isomerate, Pentavitin, plant sugar complexDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin

Salicylic Acid (BHA)An oil-soluble exfoliant that works inside the pore to help keep it clear of blackheads and congestion; the go-to acid for oily, blemish-prone skin.Ssalicylic acid, BHA, beta hydroxy acid, sodium salicylate, 2-hydroxybenzoic acidBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

SeaweedMarine extracts rich in minerals, amino acids and water-binding sugars that help hydrate, soften and revitalise the look of dry, tired skin.Sseaweed, algae, algae extract, red algae, microalgae, kelp, Palmaria palmata extract, Laminaria digitata (kelp) extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Chondrus crispus (seaweed) extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, spirulinaDry & dehydrated skin · Dull skin · Ageing skin

SeleniumAn essential trace mineral the body uses to build its own antioxidant enzymes; rare in skincare, where it plays a supporting antioxidant role.Sselenium, L-selenomethionine, selenomethionine, selenoproteinsAgeing skin

Shea ButterA rich plant butter that softens dry skin and seals in moisture; both an emollient and an occlusive for very dry, mature and compromised skin.Sshea butter, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Vitellaria paradoxa, karité, shea butter extractDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Sodium BenzoateA widely used, food-grade preservative that keeps water-based skincare free from mould and yeast, so it stays fresh once opened.Ssodium benzoate, benzoic acid, sodium salt, E211

SorbitolA gentle sugar-alcohol humectant that helps the skin's outer layer attract and hold water; often paired with glycerin in hydrating formulas.Ssorbitol, D-glucitol, glucitol, sugar alcohol, polyolDry & dehydrated skin · All skin types

Soybean Oil (Glycine Soja)A light, nourishing plant oil rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E; not to be confused with glycine, the amino acid.SGlycine soja (soybean) oil, Glycine soja oil, soya oil, soy oil, Glycine maxDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Spin TrapPhenyl butyl nitrone, a lab-developed antioxidant that traps free radicals; used in antioxidant serums to help counter oxidative stress from UV and pollution.Sspin trap, phenyl t-butylnitrone, phenyl butyl nitrone, PBN, N-tert-butyl-alpha-phenylnitroneAgeing skin · Dull skin

SqualaneA stable, lightweight emollient modelled on the squalene in our sebum; softens and comforts every skin type without greasiness.Ssqualane, plant-derived squalane, olive squalane, sugarcane squalane, squalene (the unstable form)Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin · Ageing skin

Sulphates (SLS and SLES)Strong foaming cleansers such as SLS and SLES; effective, but they can strip dry or sensitive skin, so milder cleansers suit most faces.Ssodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl sulfate, SLS, sodium laureth sulphate, sodium laureth sulfate, SLES, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium coco-sulfate, sulfates, sulphate-freeBlemish-prone skin

SulphurA clarifying mineral that gently exfoliates, absorbs excess oil and dries out the look of blemishes; best for oily skin, as it can be drying.Ssulphur, sulfur, colloidal sulphur, precipitated sulphurBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

Sunscreen Filters: Mineral (Physical)Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide: mineral UV filters that sit on the skin's surface and suit sensitive, redness-prone skin.Smineral sunscreen, physical sunscreen, mineral SPF, inorganic UV filters, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, CI 77947, CI 77891Sun protection · Sensitive skin · Redness · Pigmentation & dark spots

Sunscreen Filters: Organic (Chemical)Carbon-based UV filters that absorb UVA and UVB rays; sheer and easy to wear, and usually combined for broad-spectrum protection.Schemical sunscreen, chemical SPF, organic UV filters, chemical UV filters, avobenzone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octinoxate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octisalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, benzophenone-3, bemotrizinol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ensulizole, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acidSun protection · Ageing skin · Pigmentation & dark spots · All skin types

Superoxide DismutaseAn antioxidant enzyme the skin makes itself to neutralise superoxide free radicals; added to serums to help counter oxidative stress from UV and pollution.Ssuperoxide dismutase, SOD, antioxidant enzymeAgeing skin · Dull skin

Tea Tree OilA clarifying Australian essential oil for oily, blemish-prone skin; best used in a ready-made formula on individual blemishes, never neat.Ttea tree oil, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, melaleuca oil, terpinen-4-olBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

TFC8 (Trigger Factor Complex)Augustinus Bader's patented complex of amino acids, vitamins and skin-identical molecules, at the heart of every formula in the range.TTFC8, TFC-8, Trigger Factor Complex 8, Advanced TFC8, Augustinus BaderAgeing skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Titanium DioxideA white mineral UV filter, strongest against UVB, that is also used as a white pigment in creams and makeup.Ttitanium dioxide, CI 77891, TiO2, micronised titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide [nano]Sun protection · Sensitive skin

TotarolAn antioxidant from the heartwood of New Zealand's tōtara tree, used in soothing creams and serums to help defend skin against free radicals.Ttotarol, totara extract, tōtara, Podocarpus totaraAgeing skin · Sensitive skin

Tranexamic AcidA gentle, well-tolerated brightening active that helps fade the look of stubborn pigmentation and post-blemish marks.Ttranexamic acid, TXA, trans-4-(aminomethyl)cyclohexanecarboxylic acidPigmentation & dark spots

UreaA skin-identical humectant from the skin's own moisturising factor; low strengths hydrate, higher strengths soften rough, thickened skin.Uurea, carbamideDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Body texture & stretch marks

Vinegar (Acetum)A mild fermented acid used in small amounts to keep formulas such as Lotion P50 at a low, skin-friendly pH.Vacetum, vinegar, apple cider vinegar, acetic acidBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

Vitamin A (Retinoids)The retinoid family, from gentle retinyl esters to retinol, retinal and prescription tretinoin: helps skin look smoother, more even and refined.Vretinoids, retinol, retinal, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl esters, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, HPR, Granactive Retinoid, retinoic acid, tretinoin, adapaleneAgeing skin · Texture & large pores · Blemish-prone skin · Pigmentation & dark spots · Dull skin

Vitamin CA potent antioxidant that brightens, helps fade the look of pigmentation and helps skin look firmer; best worn in the morning under SPF.VL-ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, MAP, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, SAP, ascorbyl glucoside, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, THD ascorbate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl palmitate, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acidPigmentation & dark spots · Dull skin · Ageing skin

Vitamin EA fat-soluble antioxidant and emollient (tocopherol) that softens dry skin and helps protect the barrier from free radical damage.Vtocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, alpha-tocopherol, tocotrienols, vitamin EDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Walnut ExtractAn antioxidant-rich extract used to firm and tone dull, tired skin; walnut-shell scrubs are too harsh for the face.Wwalnut extract, Juglans regia seed extract, Juglans regia shell extract, walnut oilDull skin · Ageing skin

Witch HazelA soothing, astringent plant extract that helps reduce the look of pores and shine and calm the look of redness.WHamamelis virginiana, Hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) water, Hamamelis virginiana bark/leaf/twig extract, witch hazel water, hamamelisBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores · Redness

Xanthan GumA fermentation-derived thickener that gives gels, serums and creams their texture and keeps formulas stable.Xxanthan gum, xanthan, E415All skin types

XylitolA plant-derived sugar alcohol, often paired with xylitylglucoside and anhydroxylitol, that helps skin hold water and feel comfortable.Xxylitol, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitolDry & dehydrated skin · All skin types

Yeast ExtractA nutrient-rich extract of yeast, with amino acids, B vitamins and sugars, that conditions and hydrates; a staple of Biologique Recherche formulas.Yyeast extract, faex extract, faex, hydrolysed yeast protein, hydrolyzed yeast protein, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, Saccharomyces ferment filtrate, Saccharomyces lysate extract, yeast ferment, brewer's yeast, baker's yeastDull skin · Texture & large pores · Blemish-prone skin · Dry & dehydrated skin

ZincAn essential mineral whose skincare salts, such as zinc PCA, help skin look less oily and calm the look of redness; not the same as zinc oxide, the UV filter.Zzinc, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, zinc sulphate, zinc sulfateBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores · Redness

Zinc OxideA white mineral UV filter that protects against both UVA and UVB, and a gentle choice for sensitive and redness-prone skin.Zzinc oxide, CI 77947, ZnO, non-nano zinc oxide, zinc oxide [nano]Sun protection · Sensitive skin · Redness

Not sure which ingredients your skin needs? Every Melanie Grant treatment begins with a one-on-one skin assessment.

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