Ingredients Glossary / A

Arbutin

A gentle brightening agent, usually used as alpha-arbutin, that helps even skin tone and fade the look of dark spots.

alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, hydroquinone beta-D-glucopyranoside, bearberry extract, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi

Pigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin · Dull skin

What it does

Arbutin helps reduce the appearance of pigmentation, such as dark spots. Found naturally in bearberry leaves, arbutin brightens, refines and clarifies the skin for a more even tone. Most skincare now uses alpha-arbutin, a lab-made form that is more stable and effective at lower strengths.

How it works

Arbutin helps brighten the skin and has been widely studied for its effect on the look of uneven tone. It can help fade the look of dark spots and even out skin tone over time, working gradually rather than as a quick fix, so it is best paired with daily SPF to help protect the results. Chemically, it is a hydroquinone molecule bound to a sugar; because it can break down to hydroquinone, EU and Australian rules cap how much can be used in skincare.

MG says

Arbutin is less irritating than many other brightening agents, so it suits sensitive skin. Alpha-arbutin belongs in the targeted-serum step of an evening routine, when actives can work uninterrupted, and you’ll find it among the brighteners in Eighth Day The Eye Renewal Cream, which I tap onto the orbital bone with my ring finger.

Cautions

Generally well tolerated. Brightening results depend on wearing SPF every day. If you’re pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using arbutin or other brightening actives.

Regional notes

Australia: Alpha-arbutin is limited to 2% in face products and 0.5% in body products, and arbutin to 7% in face products, each with only trace hydroquinone; stronger products are Schedule 6 poisons.

United Kingdom: In the EU, alpha-arbutin is capped at 2% in face creams and 0.5% in body lotions, and arbutin at 7% in face creams (fully in force from 1 November 2025); the UK has not adopted these limits.

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ArbutinA gentle brightening agent, usually used as alpha-arbutin, that helps even skin tone and fade the look of dark spots.Aalpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, hydroquinone beta-D-glucopyranoside, bearberry extract, Arctostaphylos uva-ursiPigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin · Dull skin

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BaobabFrom the African baobab tree: a softening seed oil and hydrating fruit and leaf extracts, suited to dry and mature skin.BAdansonia digitata seed oil, Adansonia digitata pulp extract, baobab seed oil, baobab fruit extract, baobab leaf extractDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

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Beta GlucanA soothing sugar from oats, yeast or mushrooms that hydrates, calms the look of redness and comforts sensitive skin.Bbeta-glucan, oat beta glucan, sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, yeast beta-glucanSensitive skin · Redness · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

BisabololA calming compound found in chamomile that soothes sensitive skin and helps other ingredients absorb.Balpha-bisabolol, (-)-alpha-bisabolol, levomenolSensitive skin · Redness

CaffeineAn antioxidant used mainly in eye care to reduce the look of puffiness and dark circles, and in body creams for the look of cellulite.Ccaffeine, coffee, Coffea arabicaDark circles · Body texture & stretch marks

CalendulaA soothing extract of pot marigold flowers that helps comfort and nourish dry, sensitive or easily irritated skin.CCalendula officinalis, pot marigold, marigold, calendula oil, calendula flower extractSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Redness

Castor OilA thick, glossy seed oil that helps cleansing balms dissolve makeup and gives lip care its cushion and shine.CRicinus communis (castor) seed oil, castor seed oil, ricinus oilDry & dehydrated skin

Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola)A calming botanical, often labelled “cica”, that helps soothe redness and sensitivity and supports the skin barrier.CCentella asiatica, gotu kola, cica, tiger grass, madecassoside, asiaticoside, Centella asiatica leaf extractSensitive skin · Redness · Barrier support

CeramidesSkin-identical lipids that, with cholesterol and fatty acids, hold the skin barrier together and help it lock in moisture.Cceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide EOP, sphingolipids, phytosphingosine, barrier lipids, skin-identical lipidsDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

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ChamomileA soothing flower extract, rich in antioxidants, that helps calm sensitive skin and the look of redness.Ccamomile, German chamomile, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract, Roman chamomile, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Chamaemelum nobileSensitive skin · Redness

CholesterolOne of the skin’s three key barrier lipids, working with ceramides and fatty acids to keep skin supple and hold in moisture.Ccholesterol, cholesterol sulphate, phytosterols (plant sterols), barrier lipidsDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin · Sensitive skin

Citric AcidA fruit acid used mostly in tiny amounts to balance a formula’s pH; at higher strengths it is a mild AHA exfoliant.Ccitric acid, sodium citrate, citrateDull skin · Texture & large pores

ClaysAbsorbent mineral clays, such as kaolin and bentonite, used in masks to soak up excess oil and help keep pores clear.Cclay, kaolin, white clay, bentonite, bentonite clay, montmorillonite, illiteBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

Cocamidopropyl BetaineA mild, coconut-derived foaming agent that gives cleansers a soft lather and makes harsher surfactants gentler.Ccocamidopropyl betaine, CAPB, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco betaine, cocamidopropylAll skin types

Cocoa Butter and PowderRich cocoa butter softens and seals in moisture on very dry skin, while antioxidant cocoa extracts help protect it.CTheobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract, cacao, cocoa seed butter, cocoa extractDry & dehydrated skin

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CollagenThe skin’s main structural protein. Applied topically it hydrates the surface, but it can’t replace the collagen skin loses with age.Ccollagen, hydrolysed collagen, hydrolyzed collagen, soluble collagen, marine collagen, collagen amino acids, atelocollagenDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

Colloidal OatmealFinely milled whole oats that comfort, soften and moisturise dry, sensitive or easily irritated skin.Ccolloidal oatmeal, Avena sativa (oat) kernel flour, oat, oat kernel extract, oat beta-glucan, avenanthramidesSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Redness · Barrier support

Copper PeptidesCarrier peptides, chiefly GHK-Cu, that deliver copper to the skin and help it look firmer and smoother.Ccopper peptides, copper peptide, copper tripeptide-1, GHK-Cu, copper, copper gluconate, copper PCA, copper lysinate/prolinateAgeing skin

Cucumber ExtractA cooling, water-rich botanical extract that soothes, refreshes and helps hydrate sensitive or irritated skin.Ccucumber, cucumber extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Cucumis sativusSensitive skin · Redness · Dry & dehydrated skin

DimethiconeA silicone that gives creams, primers and sunscreens their silky slip, smooths the look of skin and helps seal in moisture.Ddimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane, PDMS, silicone, silicones, dimethiconol, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymerDry & dehydrated skin · Texture & large pores · Sensitive skin

DNA and RNAPurified nucleic acid fragments, often from salmon, that help skin hold moisture and look plumper; they don't alter your own DNA.DDNA, RNA, sodium DNA, calcium DNA, magnesium DNA, salmon DNA, triple DNA, nucleic acids, polynucleotides, PDRNDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

EctoinA protective molecule made by bacteria that survive salt, heat and drought; in skincare it hydrates, soothes and shields.Eectoin, ectoine, extremolyteSensitive skin · Redness · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Emulsifying WaxA blend of ingredients that holds oil and water together, giving creams and lotions a smooth, stable texture.Eemulsifying wax NF, emulsifying wax BP, cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20, emulsifierDry & dehydrated skin

Encapsulation and LiposomesDelivery systems that wrap actives in tiny capsules to keep them stable and release them gradually, so they are gentler.Eencapsulated, microencapsulated, micro-encapsulated, liposomes, liposomal, slow-release, time-release, extended-release, delivery system, phospholipids, lecithinAgeing skin · Sensitive skin · Texture & large pores

EnzymesFruit-derived and other enzymes, such as bromelain and papain, that digest dead surface cells: the mildest form of chemical exfoliation.Eenzyme exfoliants, fruit enzymes, proteolytic enzymes, protease, bromelain, papain, pineapple enzyme, papaya enzyme, pumpkin enzyme, enzyme peelSensitive skin · Dull skin · Texture & large pores · Dry & dehydrated skin

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Ferulic AcidA plant-derived antioxidant that helps stabilise vitamins C and E and adds to their protection against free radicals.Fferulic acid, hydroxycinnamic acidAgeing skin · Dull skin · Pigmentation & dark spots

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GlycerinA gentle, well-tolerated humectant that draws moisture into the skin; a staple of moisturisers for every skin type.Gglycerine, glycerol, vegetable glycerinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · All skin types

Glycolic AcidThe smallest and most potent of the common AHAs: an exfoliant that refines texture, brightens and smooths the look of fine lines.Gglycolic acid, hydroxyacetic acid, AHA, alpha hydroxy acidTexture & large pores · Dull skin · Ageing skin · Pigmentation & dark spots · Body texture & stretch marks

Grape Seed OilA light, fast-absorbing plant oil rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E that softens skin without heaviness.Ggrapeseed oil, Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, Vitis vinifera seed oilBarrier support · Blemish-prone skin · Dull skin

Green TeaAn antioxidant-rich extract that helps defend skin from free radicals and calms the look of redness and puffiness.Ggreen tea extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, EGCG, epigallocatechin gallate, matchaSensitive skin · Redness · Ageing skin

Growth FactorsProteins modelled on the skin's own messengers; in skincare they are bioengineered and used to help skin look smoother, plumper and firmer.Ggrowth factor, EGF, epidermal growth factor, sh-oligopeptide-1, sh-polypeptide-1, bioengineered growth factorsAgeing skin

HoneyA natural humectant with antioxidant polyphenols that softens, soothes and hydrates; Manuka honey is the variety most used in skincare.Hmel, honey extract, mel extract, Manuka honey, raw honeyDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · All skin types

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Hyaluronic AcidA humectant the skin makes itself, which draws in and holds water to plump and smooth; serums combine several molecular weights.Hhyaluronan, HA, sodium hyaluronate, L sodium hyaluronate, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · Sensitive skin · All skin types

HydroquinoneA potent depigmenting medicine used for stubborn pigmentation; available on prescription or from a pharmacy, depending on the country, not in cosmetic skincare.Hhydroquinone, HQ, 1,4-dihydroxybenzene, benzene-1,4-diol, quinolPigmentation & dark spots

Isoflavones (Phyto-oestrogens)Soy-derived plant compounds with an oestrogen-like structure, used in creams for mature and menopausal skin to help it look firmer.Isoy isoflavones, soya isoflavones, genistein, daidzein, phytoestrogens, phyto-estrogens, yam extract, wild yam, Dioscorea villosaAgeing skin · Dry & dehydrated skin

Jojoba OilA light liquid wax from jojoba seeds that closely resembles the skin's own sebum, so it softens and protects without feeling heavy.JSimmondsia chinensis seed oil, jojoba seed oil, jojoba esters, jojoba wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, jojoba beadsBlemish-prone skin · Sensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Kojic AcidA brightening ingredient made by fungi during fermentation that helps even the look of skin tone and fade the appearance of dark spots.Kkojic acid, kojic dipalmitate, 5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4-pyronePigmentation & dark spots · Dull skin

Lactic AcidA gentle, hydrating AHA that smooths and brightens; a larger molecule than glycolic acid, so it suits dry and sensitive skin.Llactic acid, L-lactic acid, sodium lactate, AHADull skin · Texture & large pores · Dry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Body texture & stretch marks

LanolinA rich, semi-occlusive emollient from sheep's wool that softens and seals in moisture on very dry, chapped skin.Llanolin, lanolin oil, wool wax, wool fat, adeps lanaeDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support

Lemon BalmA soothing, antioxidant-rich herb (Melissa officinalis), rich in rosmarinic acid, used in radiance formulas.Llemon balm, Melissa officinalis, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, melissaDull skin

Liquorice RootA soothing root extract that calms the look of redness and helps brighten and even out skin tone.LGlycyrrhiza glabra root extract, licorice root extract, liquorice extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycyrrhizin, glabridin, liquiritinPigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin · Redness

Mandelic AcidThe gentlest of the common AHAs: a large-molecule exfoliant that refines texture and helps keep pores clear.Mmandelic acid, amygdalic acid, phenylglycolic acidBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores · Pigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin

Marula OilA nourishing, antioxidant-rich kernel oil, high in oleic acid, suited to dry, dehydrated and mature skin.Mmarula oil, Sclerocarya birrea seed oil, Sclerocarya birrea kernel oilDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin

MicellesTiny clusters of mild cleansing molecules suspended in water that lift away makeup and impurities without stripping the skin.Mmicellar water, micelles, eau micellaireSensitive skin · Dry & dehydrated skin · All skin types

Milk ProteinsDairy-derived proteins such as casein and whey that hold water on the skin, comforting and softening dry, sensitive complexions.Mmilk protein, lactis proteinum, casein, hydrolysed casein, whey protein, colostrumDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin

Milk ThistleA soothing plant antioxidant, rich in silymarin, that helps protect sensitive and ageing skin from environmental stress.MSilybum marianum, Silybum marianum extract, Silybum marianum seed oil, silymarin, silybinSensitive skin · Redness · Ageing skin

Mushroom ExtractsExtracts of fungi such as tremella, poria and reishi, used for their water-holding sugars and soothing, antioxidant compounds.MTremella fuciformis extract, snow mushroom, Poria cocos extract, Ganoderma lucidum extract, reishi, Fomes officinalis extract, Tricholoma matsutake extract, matsutake, Lentinus edodes extract, shiitake, Cordyceps sinensis extract, Trametes versicolor extract, Polyporus umbellatus extractDry & dehydrated skin · Redness · Sensitive skin

Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF)The skin's own water-binding mix of amino acids, PCA, lactate and urea; skincare tops it up to keep the outer layer supple.NNMF, NMFs, natural moisturizing factor, sodium PCA, PCA, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, sodium lactate, urea, amino acids, filaggrinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)A gentle form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the barrier, helps skin look less oily and evens the look of tone; suits most skin types.Nniacinamide, nicotinamide, vitamin B3Barrier support · Pigmentation & dark spots · Redness · Blemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

Omega Fatty Acids (Vitamin F)Nourishing fats, including the essential omega-3 and omega-6 once called vitamin F, that help the skin barrier hold water and stay supple.Oomegas, omega-3, omega-6, omega-9, essential fatty acids, EFAs, vitamin F, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, EPA, DHADry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)Provitamin B5: a humectant that draws water into the skin, supports the barrier and soothes dry, irritated or red skin.Ppanthenol, D-panthenol, dexpanthenol, provitamin B5, pro-vitamin B5, pantothenic acidDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Redness · Barrier support

PeptidesShort chains of amino acids that help skin look firmer and smoother, soften the look of expression lines and support the barrier.Ppolypeptides, oligopeptides, signal peptides, Matrixyl, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, neuropeptides, Argireline, acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, carrier peptides, copper peptides, copper tripeptide-1, GHK-CuAgeing skin · Barrier support · Redness

Petrolatum and Mineral OilHighly refined, petroleum-derived occlusives that seal moisture in and protect very dry or compromised skin.Ppetrolatum, petroleum jelly, white soft paraffin, white petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum, liquid paraffin, paraffinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin

Phytic AcidA gentle, large-molecule exfoliating acid from grains and seeds that also acts as an antioxidant; suits sensitive skin.Pphytic acid, inositol hexaphosphate, IP6, sodium phytateSensitive skin · Texture & large pores · Dull skin

Plant Stem CellsAntioxidant-rich extracts from plant cell cultures that help protect the skin; they do not act as stem cells in your own skin.Pplant stem cell extract, plant cell culture extract, callus culture extract, meristem cell culture extract, Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, apple stem cells, Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, edelweiss stem cells, Lycium barbarum callus culture extractAgeing skin · Dull skin

Polyglutamic AcidA lightweight humectant made by fermentation that draws in water and leaves a flexible film, so skin stays plump and hydrated.Ppolyglutamic acid, PGA, gamma-polyglutamic acid, sodium polyglutamateDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · All skin types

PreservativesIngredients that stop bacteria, yeasts and moulds growing in a product once it's opened, so it stays safe to use.Pphenoxyethanol, parabens, methylparaben, propylparaben, sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, preservative-freeAll skin types

Quillaja (Soap Bark)A bark extract from the Chilean soapbark tree whose natural saponins foam and help cleanse.QQuillaja saponaria, Quillaja saponaria bark extract, Quillaja saponaria wood extract, soap bark, soapbark, saponinsBlemish-prone skin

ResveratrolA plant polyphenol antioxidant that helps defend skin against pollution and oxidative stress and softens the look of lines.Rresveratrol, trans-resveratrol, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Japanese knotweedAgeing skin · Dull skin

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)A strong non-prescription retinoid, one conversion step from retinoic acid, that refines texture, softens the look of lines and evens tone.Rretinal, retinaldehyde, vitamin A aldehyde, retinoidAgeing skin · Texture & large pores · Blemish-prone skin · Pigmentation & dark spots

RiceA gentle, multitasking ingredient: rice bran oil moisturises, rice protein conditions and rice starch leaves a soft, protective film.ROryza sativa, rice bran oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, hydrolysed rice protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, rice starch, rice waterDull skin · Dry & dehydrated skin

Rosehip OilA light seed oil rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids that softens, supports the barrier and suits oily, dry and mature skin.Rrosehip oil, rose hip oil, rosehip seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Rosa canina seed oil, Rosa rubiginosa seed oil, Rosa moschata seed oil, rosa mosqueta, dog roseDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · Blemish-prone skin · Body texture & stretch marks

Rose Oil and RosewaterRosewater, the fragrant water distilled from rose petals, refreshes and hydrates; rose essential oil adds scent in tiny amounts.Rrose water, rosewater, rose flower water, Rosa damascena flower water, rose oil, rose otto, rose absolute, Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosa centifolia flower extract, damask rose, rose hydrosolDry & dehydrated skin

Saccharide IsomerateA plant-sugar humectant that binds to the skin's surface, so the hydration it brings lasts longer than most.Ssaccharide isomerate, Pentavitin, plant sugar complexDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin

Salicylic Acid (BHA)An oil-soluble exfoliant that works inside the pore to help keep it clear of blackheads and congestion; the go-to acid for oily, blemish-prone skin.Ssalicylic acid, BHA, beta hydroxy acid, sodium salicylate, 2-hydroxybenzoic acidBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

SeaweedMarine extracts rich in minerals, amino acids and water-binding sugars that help hydrate, soften and revitalise the look of dry, tired skin.Sseaweed, algae, algae extract, red algae, microalgae, kelp, Palmaria palmata extract, Laminaria digitata (kelp) extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Chondrus crispus (seaweed) extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, spirulinaDry & dehydrated skin · Dull skin · Ageing skin

SeleniumAn essential trace mineral the body uses to build its own antioxidant enzymes; rare in skincare, where it plays a supporting antioxidant role.Sselenium, L-selenomethionine, selenomethionine, selenoproteinsAgeing skin

Shea ButterA rich plant butter that softens dry skin and seals in moisture; both an emollient and an occlusive for very dry, mature and compromised skin.Sshea butter, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Vitellaria paradoxa, karité, shea butter extractDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Sodium BenzoateA widely used, food-grade preservative that keeps water-based skincare free from mould and yeast, so it stays fresh once opened.Ssodium benzoate, benzoic acid, sodium salt, E211

SorbitolA gentle sugar-alcohol humectant that helps the skin's outer layer attract and hold water; often paired with glycerin in hydrating formulas.Ssorbitol, D-glucitol, glucitol, sugar alcohol, polyolDry & dehydrated skin · All skin types

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