Ingredients Glossary / A

Azelaic Acid

A gentle, versatile acid that helps keep pores clear, calm the look of redness and fade the look of post-blemish marks.

azelaic acid, nonanedioic acid, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, azeloyl glycine

Blemish-prone skin · Redness · Pigmentation & dark spots · Texture & large pores

What it does

While azelaic acid is not an AHA or BHA, it is a wonderful, gentle exfoliant which can help unclog pores and refine the skin’s surface. Providing skin with a healthy dose of antioxidants, azelaic acid buffs away dead skin to reveal glowing, radiant skin. Found naturally in grains such as wheat and barley, and produced by yeasts that live on the skin, it is one of the most versatile actives for blemish-prone skin, redness and uneven tone.

How it works

Azelaic acid gently exfoliates inside the pore, helping keep pores clear, and it helps calm the look of redness in easily flushed skin. It also helps fade the look of marks left by blemishes and even out skin tone. Higher strengths (15–20%) are regulated as medicines; cosmetic serums use lower levels or a gentler relative, azeloyl diglycinate.

MG says

Azelaic acid is a true multi-tasker for the skin. It is an effective leave-on exfoliant that works gently to keep pores clear, delivers antioxidant protection and helps calm the look of redness and uneven texture. It is also one of the actives often suggested during pregnancy and breastfeeding, for breakouts and pigmentation alike; start two or three times a week and build up.

Cautions

It can tingle, itch or feel warm when you first apply it, so introduce it slowly; sensitive skin may do best on alternate days. It is often suggested as one of the more suitable actives in pregnancy and breastfeeding, but if you’re pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using it. As with any exfoliant, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, especially when working on pigmentation.

Regional notes

Australia: Azelaic acid creams and gels sold as medicines for the skin are pharmacy medicines (Schedule 2), available without a prescription.

United States: 15% azelaic acid gels and foams and 20% creams are prescription drugs; lower-strength cosmetic formulas can’t make drug claims.

United Kingdom: In the UK and EU, 15% azelaic acid gel and 20% cream are prescription-only medicines; lower strengths are used in cosmetics.

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Milk ThistleA soothing plant antioxidant, rich in silymarin, that helps protect sensitive and ageing skin from environmental stress.MSilybum marianum, Silybum marianum extract, Silybum marianum seed oil, silymarin, silybinSensitive skin · Redness · Ageing skin

Mushroom ExtractsExtracts of fungi such as tremella, poria and reishi, used for their water-holding sugars and soothing, antioxidant compounds.MTremella fuciformis extract, snow mushroom, Poria cocos extract, Ganoderma lucidum extract, reishi, Fomes officinalis extract, Tricholoma matsutake extract, matsutake, Lentinus edodes extract, shiitake, Cordyceps sinensis extract, Trametes versicolor extract, Polyporus umbellatus extractDry & dehydrated skin · Redness · Sensitive skin

Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF)The skin's own water-binding mix of amino acids, PCA, lactate and urea; skincare tops it up to keep the outer layer supple.NNMF, NMFs, natural moisturizing factor, sodium PCA, PCA, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, sodium lactate, urea, amino acids, filaggrinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)A gentle form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the barrier, helps skin look less oily and evens the look of tone; suits most skin types.Nniacinamide, nicotinamide, vitamin B3Barrier support · Pigmentation & dark spots · Redness · Blemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

Omega Fatty Acids (Vitamin F)Nourishing fats, including the essential omega-3 and omega-6 once called vitamin F, that help the skin barrier hold water and stay supple.Oomegas, omega-3, omega-6, omega-9, essential fatty acids, EFAs, vitamin F, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, EPA, DHADry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)Provitamin B5: a humectant that draws water into the skin, supports the barrier and soothes dry, irritated or red skin.Ppanthenol, D-panthenol, dexpanthenol, provitamin B5, pro-vitamin B5, pantothenic acidDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin · Redness · Barrier support

PeptidesShort chains of amino acids that help skin look firmer and smoother, soften the look of expression lines and support the barrier.Ppolypeptides, oligopeptides, signal peptides, Matrixyl, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, neuropeptides, Argireline, acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, carrier peptides, copper peptides, copper tripeptide-1, GHK-CuAgeing skin · Barrier support · Redness

Petrolatum and Mineral OilHighly refined, petroleum-derived occlusives that seal moisture in and protect very dry or compromised skin.Ppetrolatum, petroleum jelly, white soft paraffin, white petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum, liquid paraffin, paraffinDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin

Phytic AcidA gentle, large-molecule exfoliating acid from grains and seeds that also acts as an antioxidant; suits sensitive skin.Pphytic acid, inositol hexaphosphate, IP6, sodium phytateSensitive skin · Texture & large pores · Dull skin

Plant Stem CellsAntioxidant-rich extracts from plant cell cultures that help protect the skin; they do not act as stem cells in your own skin.Pplant stem cell extract, plant cell culture extract, callus culture extract, meristem cell culture extract, Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, apple stem cells, Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, edelweiss stem cells, Lycium barbarum callus culture extractAgeing skin · Dull skin

Polyglutamic AcidA lightweight humectant made by fermentation that draws in water and leaves a flexible film, so skin stays plump and hydrated.Ppolyglutamic acid, PGA, gamma-polyglutamic acid, sodium polyglutamateDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · All skin types

PreservativesIngredients that stop bacteria, yeasts and moulds growing in a product once it's opened, so it stays safe to use.Pphenoxyethanol, parabens, methylparaben, propylparaben, sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, preservative-freeAll skin types

Quillaja (Soap Bark)A bark extract from the Chilean soapbark tree whose natural saponins foam and help cleanse.QQuillaja saponaria, Quillaja saponaria bark extract, Quillaja saponaria wood extract, soap bark, soapbark, saponinsBlemish-prone skin

ResveratrolA plant polyphenol antioxidant that helps defend skin against pollution and oxidative stress and softens the look of lines.Rresveratrol, trans-resveratrol, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Japanese knotweedAgeing skin · Dull skin

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)A strong non-prescription retinoid, one conversion step from retinoic acid, that refines texture, softens the look of lines and evens tone.Rretinal, retinaldehyde, vitamin A aldehyde, retinoidAgeing skin · Texture & large pores · Blemish-prone skin · Pigmentation & dark spots

RiceA gentle, multitasking ingredient: rice bran oil moisturises, rice protein conditions and rice starch leaves a soft, protective film.ROryza sativa, rice bran oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, hydrolysed rice protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, rice starch, rice waterDull skin · Dry & dehydrated skin

Rosehip OilA light seed oil rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids that softens, supports the barrier and suits oily, dry and mature skin.Rrosehip oil, rose hip oil, rosehip seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Rosa canina seed oil, Rosa rubiginosa seed oil, Rosa moschata seed oil, rosa mosqueta, dog roseDry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · Blemish-prone skin · Body texture & stretch marks

Rose Oil and RosewaterRosewater, the fragrant water distilled from rose petals, refreshes and hydrates; rose essential oil adds scent in tiny amounts.Rrose water, rosewater, rose flower water, Rosa damascena flower water, rose oil, rose otto, rose absolute, Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosa centifolia flower extract, damask rose, rose hydrosolDry & dehydrated skin

Saccharide IsomerateA plant-sugar humectant that binds to the skin's surface, so the hydration it brings lasts longer than most.Ssaccharide isomerate, Pentavitin, plant sugar complexDry & dehydrated skin · Sensitive skin

Salicylic Acid (BHA)An oil-soluble exfoliant that works inside the pore to help keep it clear of blackheads and congestion; the go-to acid for oily, blemish-prone skin.Ssalicylic acid, BHA, beta hydroxy acid, sodium salicylate, 2-hydroxybenzoic acidBlemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores

SeaweedMarine extracts rich in minerals, amino acids and water-binding sugars that help hydrate, soften and revitalise the look of dry, tired skin.Sseaweed, algae, algae extract, red algae, microalgae, kelp, Palmaria palmata extract, Laminaria digitata (kelp) extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Chondrus crispus (seaweed) extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, spirulinaDry & dehydrated skin · Dull skin · Ageing skin

SeleniumAn essential trace mineral the body uses to build its own antioxidant enzymes; rare in skincare, where it plays a supporting antioxidant role.Sselenium, L-selenomethionine, selenomethionine, selenoproteinsAgeing skin

Shea ButterA rich plant butter that softens dry skin and seals in moisture; both an emollient and an occlusive for very dry, mature and compromised skin.Sshea butter, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Vitellaria paradoxa, karité, shea butter extractDry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin

Sodium BenzoateA widely used, food-grade preservative that keeps water-based skincare free from mould and yeast, so it stays fresh once opened.Ssodium benzoate, benzoic acid, sodium salt, E211

SorbitolA gentle sugar-alcohol humectant that helps the skin's outer layer attract and hold water; often paired with glycerin in hydrating formulas.Ssorbitol, D-glucitol, glucitol, sugar alcohol, polyolDry & dehydrated skin · All skin types

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