Ingredients Glossary / B

Bakuchiol

A plant-based alternative to retinol that helps soften the look of fine lines and uneven tone, with less irritation.

bakuchiol, Psoralea corylifolia seed extract, babchi

Ageing skin · Sensitive skin · Pigmentation & dark spots

    What it does

    Hailed as a natural alternative to retinol, bakuchiol is a plant-based ingredient that can help with many skin concerns, from blemish-prone skin through to the visible signs of ageing. An antioxidant found in the seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), native to India, bakuchiol comes from a plant long used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for its calming and soothing properties.

    How it works

    Bakuchiol isn’t a retinoid, but laboratory studies show it switches on some of the same pathways as retinol. It is used to help skin look smoother and firmer, which becomes increasingly important the older we get because the body’s natural renewal process slows down as we age. A build-up of dead cells on the skin’s surface can lead to uneven texture and tone, dehydration and rough, dry patches. Meanwhile, a decline in collagen levels can result in visible signs of ageing such as fine lines, wrinkles, and a loss of elasticity. In a small 12-week trial, bakuchiol improved the look of fine lines and pigmentation about as well as retinol, with less dryness and stinging.

    MG says

    Bakuchiol has calming properties, making it more of a mellow choice for those with sensitive and/or dry skin, or finer, reactive skin that finds retinol irritating. Unlike retinol, it doesn’t break down in sunlight, so it can be used morning or evening (whereas retinol should only be used in the evening when there is no chance of sun exposure). If you’re breastfeeding and concerned about retinoids, discuss it with your doctor or consider bakuchiol instead; in pregnancy, check with your doctor first.

    Cautions

    Generally well tolerated, but patch test first if your skin is reactive. Many bakuchiol products also contain retinol or retinal, so check the ingredient list if you are avoiding retinoids, for example in pregnancy. Bakuchiol hasn’t been studied in pregnancy, so if you’re pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using it.

    Regional notes