Collagen
The skin’s main structural protein. Applied topically it hydrates the surface, but it can’t replace the collagen skin loses with age.
collagen, hydrolysed collagen, hydrolyzed collagen, soluble collagen, marine collagen, collagen amino acids, atelocollagen
Dry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin
What it does
Collagen is an essential building block of the skin. The most abundant protein in the body, it forms the supportive network of the dermis, the layer beneath the skin’s surface, and keeps skin firm, plump and smooth. However, as we age our collagen production slows, leading to fine lines, wrinkles and a loss of firmness and elasticity. In skincare, collagen is a hydrator rather than a replacement: its molecules are too large to pass into the skin, so it sits on the surface and cannot top up the skin’s own supply.
How it works
Applied topically, collagen acts as a humectant and film-former: it attracts and holds water at the surface, leaving skin feeling smoother, softer and better hydrated, and making fine lines look temporarily less visible. In the skin itself, collagen works alongside elastin to give the dermis its strength and spring, but collagen in a cream can’t rebuild it; that depends on the skin’s own production. On labels it appears as hydrolysed collagen, soluble collagen or collagen amino acids. Hydrolysed forms are broken into smaller fragments, but they still work mainly as surface hydrators.
MG says
Topical collagen is fantastic for hydrating the skin; however, the real key to getting the most out of collagen is to look after your skin’s own supply. To do this, look to peptides, retinoids and vitamin C, which help skin look firmer and smoother, and apply peptides at a different time from AHAs, which can reduce their efficacy.
Cautions
Topical collagen is generally well tolerated; patch test first if your skin is reactive. It comes from animal sources, usually fish or cattle, so check the source if you avoid animal-derived ingredients. Retinoids, suggested above, are best avoided if you’re pregnant or trying to conceive; if you’re breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist.
