Emulsifying Wax
A blend of ingredients that holds oil and water together, giving creams and lotions a smooth, stable texture.
emulsifying wax NF, emulsifying wax BP, cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20, emulsifier
Dry & dehydrated skin
What it does
Emulsifying waxes hold oil and water together, so creams and lotions stay smooth and don't separate. They are used in a number of common products, particularly richer creams designed to help combat dryness. On their own they don't moisturise: the hydration comes from the water, oils and humectants they hold together.
How it works
Consisting of molecules with one water-loving (hydrophilic) and one oil-loving (hydrophobic) end, an emulsifying wax makes it possible for an oil and water product not to separate, thus creating a smooth emulsion. 'Emulsifying wax' is usually a blend rather than a single ingredient: on labels you may see it by name or as its parts, such as cetearyl alcohol with polysorbate 60 or ceteareth-20. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol, which softens the skin and is not drying like ethanol.
MG says
Emulsifying waxes are employed to ensure that our skin receives both adequate water and adequate lipids which in union provide optimal hydration to the complexion. More commonly employed in products targeted to a dry or normal to dry skin type, they give a creamy consistency and smooth, silky finish to balms, lotions and masks. If your skin is sensitive, avoid creams made with emulsifying wax that contains sodium lauryl sulphate, such as aqueous cream: as with cleansers, sulphates are best kept away from sensitive skin.
Cautions
Emulsifying waxes are generally well tolerated. The pharmacopoeia grade used in aqueous cream contains sodium lauryl sulphate, which can irritate dry or sensitive skin; the UK medicines regulator has warned that aqueous cream may cause skin irritation, particularly in children with eczema.
