Encapsulation and Liposomes

Encapsulation wraps an active ingredient in a microscopic protective shell. It keeps delicate actives such as retinoids and vitamin C stable in the jar, then releases them gradually on the skin, which is why encapsulated or 'slow-release' retinoids are often easier to tolerate. MG's Notes suggest a slow-release or micro-encapsulated retinol when starting out, around the eyes and for uneven texture, and count sophisticated delivery systems among the things that can justify a higher price.

Liposomes are the best-known capsules: hollow spheres made from phospholipids, the same family of fats found in cell membranes, which can carry water-loving actives inside and oil-loving ones in their walls. Other systems use polymers, sugars or waxes. The shell protects the active from light and air, helps carry it into the upper layers of the skin, then releases it steadily rather than all at once, which can mean less irritation. Valmont's DNA and RNA liposomes are a well-known example.