Enzymes
Fruit-derived and other enzymes, such as bromelain and papain, that digest dead surface cells: the mildest form of chemical exfoliation.
enzyme exfoliants, fruit enzymes, proteolytic enzymes, protease, bromelain, papain, pineapple enzyme, papaya enzyme, pumpkin enzyme, enzyme peel
Sensitive skin · Dull skin · Texture & large pores · Dry & dehydrated skin
What it does
Enzymes have become an essential part of modern skincare. They help the skin shed dead surface cells more evenly, a gentle form of exfoliation. When used regularly, enzymes can brighten and smooth the look of the skin while gently buffing its surface. The most common are bromelain, from pineapple, and papain, from papaya, along with proteases listed simply as protease. Because they don't need a low pH to work, as acids do, they are a softer alternative to more intense acids.
How it works
Usually derived from fruits — including pineapple, papaya and pumpkin — exfoliating enzymes are proteases: they digest the proteins that hold dead cells to the skin's surface, so those cells lift away without scrubbing. They can break down dead skin and polish, buff and smooth the skin. They work only on the very surface and need a little moisture and time to act, which is why they are found in powder cleansers, masks and peels, often paired with gentle acids such as lactic acid or PHAs for a slightly deeper result.
MG says
Enzymatic exfoliation is the mildest form of chemical exfoliation, making it ideal for more sensitive skin types. Even so, it can be overdone: once or twice a week is plenty for reactive skin. In the studio, an enzyme peel is part of our Hydrating Glow and Power facials and their organic counterparts, and of the Organic Pregnancy Facial; at home, Auteur's Definitive Enzyme Cleanser gives a deep clean without stressing the skin.
Cautions
Enzymes are gentle, but they can still irritate if used too often or left on longer than directed: start once a week, and don't use them on the same day as other exfoliants or retinoids. Skip them on broken, sunburnt or freshly treated skin unless your clinician advises otherwise. If you're allergic to pineapple or papaya, avoid bromelain and papain. Gentle enzyme exfoliants are often chosen during pregnancy, but if you're pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist first. Exfoliation can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily and for a week after use.
