Glycolic Acid
The smallest and most potent of the common AHAs: an exfoliant that refines texture, brightens and smooths the look of fine lines.
glycolic acid, hydroxyacetic acid, AHA, alpha hydroxy acid
Texture & large pores · Dull skin · Ageing skin · Pigmentation & dark spots · Body texture & stretch marks
What it does
Glycolic acid is one of the most popular AHAs, loosening dead surface cells to reveal smooth, soft and radiant skin. It suits normal, combination and oily skin best, and is a go-to for uneven texture and the first signs of ageing.
How it works
Glycolic acid is a versatile ingredient suited to a number of different skin concerns. It can help with the look of everything from congestion and post-blemish marks to fine lines and uneven tone, as it loosens the bonds between dead skin cells so they shed more easily. Glycolic acid can also help skin feel more hydrated and look plumper. Glycolic acid’s versatility means it can be used in everything from a simple cleanser to a complex serum or everyday night cream.
MG says
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular structure of the AHAs making it the best for rapid or intense exfoliation. That also makes it the most likely to sting, so start with a lower strength once or twice a week and build up slowly. I like to use Eighth Day The Resurfacing Tonic, which balances glycolic with lactic acid and gluconolactone, in the evening after cleansing, before my serum and moisturiser.
Cautions
Glycolic acid can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily while using it and for a week afterwards. Don't use it on the same night as retinoids or other exfoliants; alternate instead. Skip it on sensitive, broken or sunburnt skin. If you're pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using it: everyday cosmetic strengths are generally considered suitable, but professional peels need your doctor's approval first.
Regional notes
Australia: Glycolic acid in cosmetics is a Schedule 6 poison unless the product is 5% or less, or 20% or less at pH 3.5 or higher, or is for salon use only; stronger retail products must carry poison labelling.
United States: The FDA recommends a “Sunburn Alert” label on cosmetics containing AHAs, and the industry’s Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel considers glycolic acid safe in retail products at 10% or less, at pH 3.5 or higher.
