Growth Factors
Proteins modelled on the skin's own messengers; in skincare they are bioengineered and used to help skin look smoother, plumper and firmer.
growth factor, EGF, epidermal growth factor, sh-oligopeptide-1, sh-polypeptide-1, bioengineered growth factors
Ageing skin
What it does
Growth factors are proteins the skin makes naturally, which its cells use to signal to one another. Our own supply slows with age and sun exposure. In skincare, they help skin look firmer, smoother and more resilient, and they are used after in-clinic treatments to support the look of calm, healthy skin. EGF, or epidermal growth factor, is the best known, but it is one of a large family.
How it works
Cosmetic growth factors are modelled on the proteins skin makes naturally, and are used to support the look of smooth, plump skin. They are made by biotechnology (recombinant): yeast, bacteria or plants are engineered to produce proteins that match those found in skin. On a label they appear under names such as sh-oligopeptide-1 (EGF) or sh-polypeptide-1. They are large, fragile molecules, so formulation matters, and they are often applied straight after microneedling or laser resurfacing, when they can reach deeper layers.
MG says
We infuse growth factors after Matrix Pro RF microneedling and fractionated erbium laser resurfacing in Sydney and London, and within The Ultimate Collagen Treatment. At home, Eighth Day's The Regenerative Serum, built on its Peptide-Rich Plasma of peptides, growth factors and amino acids, is a mainstay of my own regime, and we use it in treatments to calm, hydrate and revitalise the skin.
Cautions
Topical growth factors are generally well tolerated; patch test a new product if your skin is reactive. In-clinic infusions should follow a consultation and your therapist's aftercare advice. If you're pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor or midwife before in-clinic treatments. Growth factors in skincare are usually bioengineered; if you want to know a product's source, ask the brand.
Regional notes
Australia: Growth factors derived from human cells are regulated by the TGA as biologicals, not cosmetics, and need ARTG inclusion; bioengineered (recombinant) growth factors are cosmetic ingredients when the claims are cosmetic.
United Kingdom: UK and EU cosmetics rules prohibit cells, tissues or products of human origin, so growth factors in UK and EU skincare must be bioengineered (recombinant) rather than taken from human cells.
