Humectants, Emollients and Occlusives

Most moisturisers are built from three types of ingredient, and knowing them makes labels far easier to read. Humectants, such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, urea and lactic acid, draw water into the upper layers of the skin. Emollients, such as squalane, ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol and plant oils, fill the gaps between skin cells so the surface feels soft and smooth. Occlusives, such as shea butter, beeswax, lanolin and petrolatum, sit on top and slow water loss.

Skin loses water to the air all day, a process called transepidermal water loss. Humectants act like moisture magnets, pulling water from deeper layers of the skin, or from humid air, into the outer layer. Emollients smooth the surface and help support the skin barrier. Occlusives form a protective film that physically slows evaporation. The right balance depends on your skin: dehydrated skin lacks water and needs humectants; dry skin lacks oil and needs emollients and occlusives; oily skin usually prefers light humectants in gel textures.