Isoflavones (Phyto-oestrogens)
Soy-derived plant compounds with an oestrogen-like structure, used in creams for mature and menopausal skin to help it look firmer.
soy isoflavones, soya isoflavones, genistein, daidzein, phytoestrogens, phyto-estrogens, yam extract, wild yam, Dioscorea villosa
Ageing skin · Dry & dehydrated skin
What it does
Isoflavones are plant compounds, found mainly in soy, whose structure resembles the hormone oestrogen; with a few related plant extracts, they are known as phyto-oestrogens. In skincare they appear in creams for mature skin, particularly skin going through perimenopause and menopause, when falling oestrogen leaves it drier, thinner and less firm. They are used to help skin look firmer, more supple and better hydrated, and they also have antioxidant properties.
How it works
Genistein and daidzein, the main soy isoflavones, can bind weakly to oestrogen receptors in skin cells. Small studies suggest this may help menopausal skin look firmer and better hydrated, but the evidence for creams is modest, and they are not a substitute for hormone therapy. Yam extract, often paired with them, contains diosgenin, which the skin cannot turn into hormones. Biologique Recherche names yam extract and soya isoflavones in Crème MSR-H, its cream for menopausal skin, and lists soy isoflavones in La Grande Crème and its PIGM 400 brightening range.
MG says
For menopausal skin, treat an isoflavone cream such as Crème MSR-H as one layer of a wider plan. The essentials are gentle, non-foaming cleansing, barrier lipids (ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids), layered hydration, a retinoid introduced slowly, and SPF 50+ every day.
Cautions
Isoflavone creams are cosmetics, not a treatment for menopausal symptoms. If you have a hormone-sensitive condition, or are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using phyto-oestrogen products. Patch test first, particularly if you're sensitive to soy.
