Mandelic Acid
The gentlest of the common AHAs: a large-molecule exfoliant that refines texture and helps keep pores clear.
mandelic acid, amygdalic acid, phenylglycolic acid
Blemish-prone skin · Texture & large pores · Pigmentation & dark spots · Sensitive skin
What it does
The largest of the common AHA molecules, mandelic acid is also the gentlest. It is often chosen for oily, congested and blemish-prone skin. It is sometimes used as a gentler alternative to salicylic acid, as it is less irritating while still helping to keep pores clear.
How it works
Like other AHAs, mandelic acid loosens the bonds between dead cells on the skin's surface so they shed more evenly, refining texture and brightening a dull complexion. Because its molecule is large, it penetrates more slowly and evenly than glycolic acid, which is why it tends to sting less. It suits oily and sensitive skin alike; very dry skin may prefer lactic acid, which also hydrates.
MG says
Originally derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is an effective exfoliant for oilier and sensitive skin types, and for every skin tone. Used gently and consistently, it helps clarify and refine the complexion and even out the look of pigmentation. For sensitive skin, keep to low concentrations and use it sparingly, perhaps once a week to begin.
Cautions
Like all AHAs, mandelic acid can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily and for a week after use. Introduce it slowly, and don't combine it with other exfoliants or retinoids on the same night. If you're pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using mandelic acid.
Regional notes
United States: The FDA recommends that cosmetics containing AHAs carry a “Sunburn Alert” label; the advice to wear sunscreen applies everywhere.
