Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF)
The skin's own water-binding mix of amino acids, PCA, lactate and urea; skincare tops it up to keep the outer layer supple.
NMF, NMFs, natural moisturizing factor, sodium PCA, PCA, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, sodium lactate, urea, amino acids, filaggrin
Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Ageing skin
What it does
Natural moisturising factors, or NMF, are the water-attracting substances held inside the cells of the skin's outermost layer. Together with the barrier lipids between those cells, they keep skin supple, smooth and comfortable. NMF declines with age, sun exposure and harsh cleansing, and, as MG's Notes describe, with the hormonal changes from the 30s through menopause, leaving skin drier, tighter and rougher. Skincare can top it up with the same ingredients the skin makes itself.
How it works
NMF forms when filaggrin, a protein in the outer skin cells, breaks down into free amino acids and their by-products, such as PCA and urocanic acid. Lactate and urea, partly from sweat, and minerals complete the mix. These small molecules draw in water and hold it within the cells, keeping them flexible. On a label, look for sodium PCA, sodium lactate, urea, amino acids such as serine and glycine, and lactic acid, which MG's Notes credit with improving the skin's own NMF.
MG says
NMFs are part of why Biologique Recherche's Lotion P50 range hydrates as well as exfoliates. Many P50 formulas, including P50V and P50W, pair their acids with NMFs and humectants such as glycerin, which gradually hydrate the skin for a plumper, healthier-looking complexion.
Cautions
NMF ingredients are generally very well tolerated and suit dry, sensitive and mature skin. Urea and lactic acid can tingle on very dry or broken skin, so patch test first. Products that pair NMF with exfoliating acids, such as the P50 lotions, call for daily SPF.
