Ingredients Glossary / P

Peptides

Short chains of amino acids that help skin look firmer and smoother, soften the look of expression lines and support the barrier.

polypeptides, oligopeptides, signal peptides, Matrixyl, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, neuropeptides, Argireline, acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, carrier peptides, copper peptides, copper tripeptide-1, GHK-Cu

Ageing skin · Barrier support · Redness

    What it does

    Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins such as collagen. They encompass a whole range of ingredients with different jobs, from helping skin look firmer to supporting the barrier and calming the look of redness. Many are used to help smooth the look of fine lines and uneven texture. Because they are much smaller than collagen, peptides can pass into the skin, while topical collagen mostly sits on the surface.

    How it works

    Peptides are made from chains of amino acids, the combination of which can change the purpose of the peptide. Found throughout the body, peptides communicate with the surrounding cells to deliver messages — in skincare, this could mean helping skin look plumper and more supple, the aim of specifically tailored peptides.

    Skincare peptides fall into a few families. Signal peptides are designed to help skin look firmer and smoother: the Matrixyl group includes palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (once listed as palmitoyl oligopeptide), often paired with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, which is credited with helping calm the look of redness. Neuropeptides such as acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) are designed to soften the look of expression lines. Carrier peptides such as copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) deliver copper, and are used to support the look of healthy, resilient skin.

    MG says

    In the studio, peptide infusions via ultrasound help support barrier function and hydration in The Camera Ready Facial, and fortifying peptides join the bespoke infusions in The Power Facial and after Matrix Pro RF microneedling. At home, Eighth Day The Regenerative Serum is a mainstay in my own regime, and one we incorporate into many of our studio treatments to calm, hydrate and fortify the skin.

    Cautions

    Peptides are generally well tolerated and can be used morning and evening. Apply them at a different time from AHAs, which can reduce their efficacy. As with any new product, patch test first if your skin is reactive.

    Regional notes