Ingredients Glossary / P

Polyglutamic Acid

A lightweight humectant made by fermentation that draws in water and leaves a flexible film, so skin stays plump and hydrated.

polyglutamic acid, PGA, gamma-polyglutamic acid, sodium polyglutamate

Dry & dehydrated skin · Ageing skin · All skin types

    What it does

    Polyglutamic acid is a humectant made by fermentation from glutamic acid, an amino acid. Like hyaluronic acid, it draws water into the upper layers of the skin, and it also leaves a fine, flexible film on the surface that helps slow moisture loss. Skin feels plumper, smoother and more comfortable. It is light and non-sticky, suits every skin type, and is especially helpful for dehydrated and mature skin, including skin going through menopause.

    How it works

    Polyglutamic acid is a large, chain-like molecule that holds a great deal of water. Because it is too big to travel far into the skin, it works mainly on the surface, where it binds moisture and forms a breathable film. That makes it a natural partner for smaller humectants such as glycerin and lower-weight hyaluronic acid, which work a little deeper. It is best used in layers, on damp skin, and sealed in with a moisturiser.

    MG says

    Layer it rather than relying on one hydrator: a toner or serum with polyglutamic acid, hyaluronic acid and glycerin, sealed in with a moisturiser rich in ceramides and squalane. It earns its place from your 30s onwards, through menopause and before a long-haul flight, when skin benefits from hydration in several layers.

    Cautions

    Polyglutamic acid is generally well tolerated by all skin types. In very dry air, such as a plane cabin, follow it with a moisturiser to seal the hydration in. Patch test if your skin is very reactive.

    Regional notes