Ingredients Glossary / S

Squalane

A stable, lightweight emollient modelled on the squalene in our sebum; softens and comforts every skin type without greasiness.

squalane, plant-derived squalane, olive squalane, sugarcane squalane, squalene (the unstable form)

Dry & dehydrated skin · Barrier support · Sensitive skin · Ageing skin

    What it does

    Squalene makes up around 10% of our skin's natural sebum, the oils produced by the sebaceous glands that perform a host of important functions for protecting the skin. Squalane is its stable, hydrogenated form, today usually made from olives or sugarcane. Because it so closely resembles the skin's own squalene, squalane is very well tolerated and absorbs easily. A lightweight emollient, squalane softens the skin, helps reduce water loss and keeps it soft and supple.

    How it works

    As we age, sebum production slows, and with it our skin's squalene, so applying squalane topically is a great way to help soften and comfort drier skin. Unlike squalene, which oxidises easily in air and sunlight, squalane is stable and won't turn rancid, and it is light and non-greasy enough to suit oily and congested skin as well as dry skin.

    MG says

    A few drops of pure squalane can be mixed into your moisturiser or pressed on after your serums, and it's especially comforting in the evening when skin feels devitalised or dried out by central heating. It's also in Auteur's Definitive Lip Renewal Treatment, which I've not been without since it launched.

    Cautions

    Squalane is very well tolerated and rarely clogs pores. Squalene, the unhydrogenated form, oxidises easily, so congestion-prone skin may do better with squalane. If you prefer plant-derived ingredients, check the source, as some squalane is still made from shark liver oil.

    Regional notes