Vitamin A (Retinoids)
The retinoid family, from gentle retinyl esters to retinol, retinal and prescription tretinoin: helps skin look smoother, more even and refined.
retinoids, retinol, retinal, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl esters, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, HPR, Granactive Retinoid, retinoic acid, tretinoin, adapalene
Ageing skin · Texture & large pores · Blemish-prone skin · Pigmentation & dark spots · Dull skin
What it does
Vitamin A and its derivatives, the retinoids, are among the most researched ingredients in skincare. Over time they help skin look smoother, more even and refined, which ultimately addresses a multitude of skin concerns. Retinoids can help refine large pores and texture, soften the look of fine lines and wrinkles, keep pores clear in blemish-prone skin, fade the look of pigmentation and brighten dull or uneven skin tone. Often called the gold standard, a retinoid is worth considering from around 30 as a preventative step, and body-specific formulas can help with the look of pigmentation and breakouts on the chest and back.
How it works
Retinol, retinal and retinyl esters are all retinoids: derivatives of vitamin A that the skin eventually converts to retinoic acid, the active form with powerful skin-changing capabilities. The fewer conversion steps a form needs, the stronger and potentially more irritating it is.
Retinyl esters, such as retinyl palmitate, are the mildest. Retinol, perhaps the most well-known over-the-counter form, needs two conversion steps and is ideal for fine lines, pigmentation, large pores and textural irregularities.
Retinal (retinaldehyde) is just one step from retinoic acid, so it is stronger again.
Retinoic acid (tretinoin) is a prescription medicine and the most potent form; adapalene, another medical retinoid, is available over the counter in the US and from pharmacists in Australia. Newer forms such as HPR (hydroxypinacolone retinoate, or Granactive Retinoid) are designed to be more stable and gentler.
MG says
I definitely recommend easing your skin into retinoids, slowly but surely. Start with a retinol serum two to three evenings a week, after cleansing and before your eye care and night cream, and work up to nightly use; results usually take three or so months, so consistency is key. I can always tell when someone uses a good retinol: it gives the skin a clear, polished and refined finish, almost glass-like.
Cautions
Prescription retinoids should not be used in pregnancy, and MG's Notes advise avoiding all retinoids, including retinol, while pregnant. If you're trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using any retinoid. Expect some dryness, redness or flaking while skin adjusts: start low and slow, and buffer with moisturiser. Hypersensitive or compromised skin should wait, or begin with a retinyl ester or a lower-dose, time-release formula. Use retinoids at night, as they degrade in sunlight, wear SPF daily, and don't layer them with exfoliating acids on the same night. Retinoids can aggravate sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, so check with your doctor or skin therapist first.
Regional notes
Australia: Cosmetic vitamin A (retinol and retinyl esters) must be 1% or less; stronger topical preparations are prescription-only (Schedule 4). Tretinoin is prescription-only, and adapalene 0.1% gel is a pharmacist-only medicine (Schedule 3).
United States: Adapalene 0.1% gel is sold over the counter for ages 12 and up, and tretinoin needs a prescription; cosmetic retinol has no set strength limit.
United Kingdom: Tretinoin and adapalene are prescription-only medicines, and the UK had not adopted a retinol limit as of September 2026. The EU caps retinol at 0.05% retinol equivalent in body lotions and 0.3% in other products, with a “Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use.” warning: products placed on the EU market must comply from 1 November 2025, and all products on sale from 1 May 2027.
