Vitamin C
A potent antioxidant that brightens, helps fade the look of pigmentation and helps skin look firmer; best worn in the morning under SPF.
L-ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, MAP, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, SAP, ascorbyl glucoside, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, THD ascorbate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl palmitate, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid
Pigmentation & dark spots · Dull skin · Ageing skin
What it does
Vitamin C is one of the most popular and impressive ingredients in skincare, and for good reason. A potent antioxidant, it helps defend the skin against free radical damage while also brightening, fading the look of dark spots and helping skin look firmer and smoother. It works to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin, and it is best applied in the morning, under SPF.
How it works
A powerful antioxidant, vitamin C neutralises free radicals before they can damage skin cells and collagen. It is also studied for its effect on tyrosinase, the enzyme behind melanin production, which is why it is used to help fade the look of pigmentation and leave skin looking more luminous. Paired with vitamin E and ferulic acid, which help stabilise it, its antioxidant protection is enhanced.
L-ascorbic acid is the purest, most potent form, but it is unstable, so it needs a low pH and airtight, opaque packaging. Stable derivatives are gentler: water-soluble magnesium and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP and SAP) and ascorbyl glucoside, and oil-soluble THD ascorbate (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, also listed as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), which is highly stable and penetrates well.
MG says
Vitamin C is great to use under sunscreen, as it complements your SPF by neutralising the free radicals produced by sun exposure. I like to layer Augustinus Bader The Serum, with its stable vitamin C, underneath my moisturiser and SPF in the morning for both immediate and long-term results.
Cautions
Vitamin C doesn't make skin more sensitive to the sun, but daily SPF is still essential. L-ascorbic acid can sting sensitive skin, so patch test, or choose a gentler derivative such as MAP. Don't apply L-ascorbic acid at the same time as benzoyl peroxide or strong acids. Store serums somewhere cool and dark, and replace one that turns dark orange or brown. If you're pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using vitamin C products.
