A Q&A published by Claire Andreewitch in December 2019, in which Melanie Grant sets out the active ingredients she thinks matter most for skin after 30. She explains that from the mid to late thirties, concerns such as pigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dullness and impurities become more common, and that actives in a home routine help.
Retinol comes first. Grant calls it the gold standard of anti-ageing and a must for anyone over 30. It promotes cell renewal and stimulates collagen, which thickens the deeper layers of the skin, plumps it, reduces pigment and refines texture. She adds that newer low-dose, slow-release formulas are better tolerated, even by sensitive skin. Antioxidants such as vitamin C come next, to lighten pigment, slow its production and protect against free radicals.
For tired, congested, sun-damaged or blemished skin she suggests alpha hydroxy acids. “Lactic acid is my favorite AHA,” she says. Its larger molecules penetrate more slowly, so it is gentler and very hydrating, and she suggests trying it in a cleanser, mask or serum. Her last pick is hyaluronic acid, which she calls the antidote to dehydration. It holds more than 1,000 times its weight in water, occurs naturally in the body and declines as we age. She prefers it in a serum or moisturiser.
